Caledonian Dandie Dinmont Terrier Club

Secretary: Mr Keith Marshall

Treasurer: Mrs Angie Miller

Convenor: Mrs Gill Denham

Vice Convenor: Ms Kirstie Tinkler

Membership Secretary: Mrs Mary Heffernan

Committee member/Stall: Mrs Gina Bell

Committee member/Catering: Mr Derek Adamson

Committee member: Mrs Shirley Dunipace

Committee member: Mrs Ali Cox-Purcell

Committee member: Mr Calum Flanders

Committee member: Mrs Jane Ferries

Committee member: Mrs Enid Hansford

Membership Secretary

Mrs Mary Heffernan

39 Brightside Avenue


G71 7NF



2019 subscription rates

 Family / JointSingleJunior

New members

If you would like to join our Club please download and fill out the membership form and send to our Membership Secretary.

If you are a new Dandie Dinmont puppy owner you will get the remainder of the current year free.

Click here for the current membership form

Current members

You can renew your membership in the following ways


Account name: Caledonian Dandie Dinmont Terrier Club
Account number: 79040055
Sort code: 55 70 23

Please remember to make clear who the payment is from.

Sent to our Membership Secretary and made payable to The Caledonian Dandie Dinmont Terrier Club.

Please note that regardless of the month your membership started, future years are due on 1st January.

On Saturday, 14th November 1987 a meeting of owners, breeders and admirers of Dandie Dinmont Terriers was held in the Fleece Hotel, Selkirk to discuss the formation of a Dandie Dinmont Terrier Club of Scotland.

The first paragraph of the first minute book written by Deirdre McLeod.

It was stated that from May through June a petition gathered support for a proposal which would be submitted to the Scottish Kennel Club asking for support and guidance in the formation of a club based in Scotland.

The meeting was attended by 17 people, with apologies for non-attendance being received from a further 14 people.

A steering committee of 6, comprising Mrs McLeod, Mrs Hulme, Mrs Dalziel, Mrs Robertson, Mrs Walkley and Mr McKenzie was formed. From there it was agreed Mr McKenzie would act as treasurer and Mrs McLeod as Secretary.

During discussion described as outstandingly frank and open, a design for the constitution of the proposed club was agreed and the number of officers discussed and agreed.

Founder members were invited with a fee of £5 per person and an entrance/enrolment fee of £5 per person.

There were three names for the club submitted to the Kennel Club on the application form:
The Caledonian Dandie Dinmont Terrier Club“, “The Dandie Dinmont Terrier Club of Scotland” and “The Scottish Dandie Dinmont Terrier Association“. The resultant vote recorded 15, 14 and 13 votes, in that order.

The Club would serve Scotland and the Border Counties.

The application to register the club was made following the meeting and confirmed the C.D.D.T.C. registered in April 1989.

The list of Founder Members recorded as follows:

Mr J. Wiseman, Miss N. Paterson, Mrs D. McLeod, Mrs E. McLeod, Mr J. Robertson, Mrs I. Robertson, Mr P. Hulme, Mrs M. Nealy, Mrs Barnett, Mrs M. Wakley, Miss J. Walkley, Mrs B. Deacon, Mrs E. Dalziel, Mrs E. Melville, Mr P. McGurk, Miss C. McGurk, Mr R. Taylor, Mr A. Crawford, Mrs F. Crawford, Mr J. McKenzie, Mrs M. McKenzie, Mr T. McKenzie, Mr A. Harper, Mrs M. Harper, Mrs Barbour, Miss L. Barbour, Mrs W. Weatherstone, Mr W. Shore, Mrs J. Shore, Miss P. Davidson, Mrs R. Findlayson, Mrs S. Sharpe, Mr Jonas Wiborg, Mrs P. Gibbs, Mr P. Hannigan, Mrs Dalrymple, Mrs M. Dewar, Miss S. Parker, Mrs G. Wilson, Mrs Foster, Mrs Mabon, Mr Hicks and Mrs Hicks.

The election of the first set of Officers and Committee took place 5th August 1989.

  • Convenor – Mrs Dalziel
  • Vice Convenor – Mrs Hulme
  • Secretery – Mrs McLeod
  • Treasurer – Mr Robertson
  • Committee – Miss Paterson, Mrs Nealy, Mr Wiseman, Mrs Walkley, Mrs Robertson, Mr Hicks, Mrs Crawford and Mrs Hicks

Working diligently, the club set to raise funds for a set of “Founders Trophies”.

Taken from Dandie Dialogue 25th Silver Anniversary Edition

General appearance

Distinctive head with beautiful silky covering, with large, wise, intelligent eyes offsetting long low weaselly body. Short, strong legs, weatherproof coat.


Game workmanlike terrier


Independent, highly intelligent, determined, persistent, sensitive, affectionate and dignified.

Head and skull

Head strongly made, large but in proportion to dogs size, muscles showing extraordinary development, especially the maxillary.

Skull broad, narrowing towards the eye, measuring about the same from inner corner of eye to back of skull as from ear to ear.

Forehead well domed, head covered with very soft, silky hair not confined to mere ‘topknot’.

Cheeks gradually tapering towards deep and strongly made muzzle.

Muzzle in proportion to skull as three is to five. Top of muzzle has triangular bare patch pointing backwards to eyes from nose about an inch broad.

Nose black.


Rich dark hazel, set wide apart, large for a small dog, bright, full and round but not protruding.


Pendulous, set well back, wide apart, low on skull, hanging low to cheeks with a very slight projection at base, broad at junction of head and tapering almost to a point, forepart of ear coming almost straight down from its junction with head to tip.

Cartilage and skin of ear very thin. Length of ear from 7.5-10cms (3-4inches).

Ears harmonise in colour with body colour. In a pepper dog, covered with straight, dark hair (in some cases almost black). In a mustard dog, hair mustard in colour, a shade darker than the body but not black. Both should have a thin feather of light hair starting about 5 cms (2 inches) from the tip, and of nearly the same colour and texture of ‘topknot’, giving ear appearance of a distinct point. This may not appear until after the age of 2 years.


Jaws strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, ie upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws. Any deviation highly undesirable.

Teeth very strong especially canines which are extraordinary in size for a small dog. Canines fit well against each other, to give greatest available holding and punishing power. Inside of mouth black or dark coloured.


Very muscular, well developed and strong, showing great power. Well set into shoulders.


Shoulders well laid back but not heavy. Forelegs short with immense muscular development and bone, set wide apart and chest coming well down between them. Forearms to follow line of chest with feet pointing forward or slightly outward when standing. Bandy legs highly undesirable.


Long, strong and flexible; ribs well sprung and round, chest well developed and well let down between forelegs; back rather low at shoulders having slight downward curve and corresponding arch over loins, slight gradual drop from top of loin to root of tail. Backbone well muscled.


Hind legs a little longer than forelegs; set rather wide apart, but not spread out in an unnatural manner; thighs well developed. Stifles angulated, hocks well let down. Dewclaws, if present, customarily removed.


Round and well padded. Hind feet smaller than forefeet. Nails dark but varying in shade according to colour of body. Flat or open feet highly undesirable.


Rather short from 20-25 cms (8-10 ins), rather thick at root, getting thicker for about 10 cms (4 ins) and tapering off to a point. Not twisted or curled in any way but with a curve like a scimitar, the tip when excited being in a perpendicular line with root of tail, set neither too high nor too low. When not excited carried gaily a little above body level.


Strong, straight impulsion from rear, giving a fluent free and easy stride, reaching forward at the front. A stiff, stilted, hopping or weaving gait highly undesirable.


Very important feature of the breed. Hair should be about 5cms (2ins) long. Double coat with a soft linty undercoat and a harder topcoat, not wiry but giving crisp feel to the hand. The coat should not ‘shed’ down the back, but should lie in pencils caused by the harder hair coming through the softer undercoat.

The forelegs have feather about 5 cms (2 ins) long. Upper side of tail covered with wiry hair, underside not so wiry with neat feathering of softer hair.


Pepper or mustard.

Pepper: Ranges from dark bluish black to light silvery grey, intermediate shades preferred. Body colour coming well down shoulder and hips gradually merging into colour of legs and feet which varies according to body colour from rich tan to pale fawn. Profuse silvery white ‘topknot’.

Mustard: Varies from reddish brown to pale fawn. Profuse creamy white ‘topknot’, legs and feet of darker shade than head.

In both colours feather on forelegs rather lighter than hair on fore part of leg. Some white hair on chest and white nails permissible. White feet undesirable. Hair on underside of tail lighter than on upper side which should be darker colour than body.


The height at withers should be from 20-28cms (8-11ins), length from withers to root of tail should not be more than twice the height, but preferably 1inch to 2ins less.

Weight: 8-11 kgs (18-24 lbs) for dogs in good working condition. The lower weights preferred.


Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dog’s ability to perform its traditional work.


Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

Published with kind permission of the Kennel Club.

Eye Testing

The Dandie Dinmont Terrier is on the schedule A list for eye testing and it is recommended that they should have their eyes tested at least every 3 years by a member of the BVA Eye Panel.  Any advice re increased frequency of test should of course should be taken from your eye specialist.  A list of  Eye Panelists (Jan2019 )can be found here.    

Tests carried out prior to the pilot study (July 2017) will have ‘G’ unaffected or affected marked on their certificates.  Any new results received from 1st January 2018 will have the PLA (Pectinate Ligament Abnormality) grade (0,1,2,3) recorded. The results will be published by the Kennel Club.  



Often new puppy owners become concerned about the way their puppy’s teeth seem to be coming through.  In some cases they are advised by their vet that corrective surgery is needed.   If this is the case with your puppy you are strongly advised to consult your breeder/mentor before agreeing to anything.  The dandie is unique in the way its adult teeth come though and align.  It is s not unusual for dandie puppies teeth to look like they are going straight up or that their canines are not forward enough, they will move forward and out at the last minute.

In his book A Good Terrier – According to Mr Dandie Dinmont, author Jonas Wiborg writes

My experience is that small dandie puppies take time to get their first teeth, compared to many other breeds. It could even take some time for a dog to get its permanent bite. Talking about the dentition of baby Dandies, I would like to add that the canines often seem to point up in the palate, but please don’t worry. Never try to snip these off. When the permanent canines come they often are really big and impressive and grow elegantly on the outside of the upper jaw and so the adult terrier can close its mouth without any problems.’



We have compiled a list of SOME Dandie Dinmont Terrier breeders.  Details of available puppies can also be found by contacting our puppy co ordinator, Mr Keith Marshall 07541603756 or at find a puppy.

KC Assured
BONNYBECKLaura Sleight01472
CLYDEHEATHMary Heffernan07711984884maryinglis@sky.comLanarkshire
DENTGATEGill Denham01833 660239 Co Durham
KC Assured
GHEALLAIDHMr & Mrs Mitchell07834765840mitchell.58@btinternet.comFife
HULLPRIDEMr & Mrs Atkinson07985047697tigbelle7@gmail.comEast Yorkshire
MISHAHDAMr & Mrs Bromley
KC Assured
01981 540512lyndabr@gmail.comHerefordshire
PUDDOCKSWELLAli Cox frogeyephotos@gmail.comScotland/Ireland
KC Assured

The Dandie Dinmont Terrier is classed as a non- shedding breed.  He is double coated meaning his body coat or “jacket” consists of a crispy topcoat for waterproofing and a softer linty undercoat for insulation.  His legs, underneath, and head consist of softer hair.

General maintenance of your dog’s coat should mean he is brushed thoroughly several times a week, the amount depending on his environment.  Puppies should be groomed daily.  Care should be taken that the coat is groomed right through down to the skin and that any knots or tangles are gently teased out with your fingers or dispersed carefully using a matt splitter. The most common place for knots to be missed is inside the legs at the top.

To keep a dandie in correct coat he should be hand stripped and the puppy coat should be stripped out by around 4 months.  With an adult pet dandie it is usually sufficient to have hand stripping done around 4 – 6 times a year depending on the rate at which the coat grows.  If however you wish for your dandie to have a tidier appearance then the coat should be rolled at least every 6-8 weeks.  This can be done by your groomer or you may wish to learn to do it yourself.

When selecting a groomer to do this, it is advised that you try to find one that has experience of grooming dandies, I may be able to put you in touch with someone in your area.   If you are informed by your groomer that your dandie puppy does not have the correct type/consistency of coat for hand stripping, please consult me as sometimes groomers not familiar with the dandie coat mistakenly advise this.

A dandies coat can, if wished, be clipped for convenience but if this is done it will lose its crispness and colour and will not be as waterproof.  It may also be impossible to return it to its pre clipped condition or it may many months and a lot of work to try and get it back to a strippable coat if this is later wished for.

Please not that if the dandie is spayed or neutered then the texture of the coat very often changes.  Stripping the coat may becomes difficult and may start to become uncomfortable for the dog or in some cases just doesn’t strip out to look right.  In these instances then the coat should be clipped.


Dandie Dinmont terriers should have their coats hand stripped to keep the crispness and colour of the coat.  Dandie puppies are usually ready for their first hand strip by 4 months. When the hair starts to part and the new coat can be seen underneath then it is time to start pulling out the dark tips.

Adult dandies need their coats stripped several times a year depending on the coat.  You can either learn to do this yourself or contact one of the experienced dandie groomers on our list below.


Do you have a dandie dinmont?  Perhaps you’re thinking about showing or breeding or just need some advice.  

We would always advise people to contact their breeder in the first instance but sometimes this is not possible.  In this case the Caledonian Club has compiled a list of Breed Mentors who between them have hundreds of years of experience.  

If you would like some advice please contact our Secretary Mr Keith Marshall using the contacts page.  He will pass on the details of one or more of the breed mentors who will be able to assist you.